In Nepal’s medieval Newar town Bandipur, a pedestrian’s utopia

Dumré, a stereotypical Nepali town close to the highway, is a picture of mercantile zeal. It’s an assault on the eyes (piles of pickaxes and chains and pots, plastic wares to back up an invasion) and the ears (blaring horns is the town’s background score). I have been there a couple of times and the only […]

Finding wilderness at Chitwan’s Beeshazar Taal

Riding in the misty, nippy autumn morning, we arrived at a rusty iron gate. The gate was locked and so was the small hut just behind it, the ticket counter for entry to Beeshazar Tal. It was already lit, but it seemed it would be a while before anyone would come to open the gate. […]