For several years, I have hiked in the meadows, mountains, and forests however, this was my first time attempting a high mountain pass. Last April, I got a chance to join an all-female Annapurna Circuit Trek. I am an aspiring female guide, so joining this trek was exciting. The group included four girls from France, me, and our guide, Shanti Dhamala. As an experienced content creator, Shanti Dhamala has been working as a trekking guide for the last seven years, and I enjoyed hiking alongside her.
From Sorakhutte to Dharapani: Day One
On April 9, at 5 a.m., Shanti Didi and I met in Sorakhutte. We then picked up our guests at Kantipur Village Hotel and began our journey to Besisahar in a 4×4 Scorpio. With no traffic, we reached Mugling in just three hours and decided to have lunch in Besisahar instead. Unfortunately, I suffered from motion sickness and couldn’t eat anything, ending up sleeping on the table. This worried Shanti Didi, who later confessed she feared I might not complete the pass.
After lunch, we switched to a Bolero because the Scorpio couldn’t go beyond Besisahar. We drove for another four hours and arrived in Dharapani by 5 p.m. Following the exhausting 12-hour journey, we checked into Hotel Paradise, had an early dinner, and by 7 p.m., we passed out.
Enjoying the Ascent and Apples! : Day Two
The next morning, after breakfast, we began our climb toward Chame, taking in the beautiful views along the way. The trail was steep initially but eventually levelled out, making the six-hour hike more manageable. We stayed at Hotel Four Seasons in Chame, where we rested before continuing our journey. On April 10, we hiked to Upper Pisang, passing a beautiful apple farm in Bhratang, where we enjoyed fresh apple juice, tea, and the most delicious apple doughnuts I’ve ever had. After the refreshing four-hour hike, we arrived at Upper Pisang and stayed at Hotel Hill Top, giving us the entire day to relax. However, the following day proved to be much more challenging.
Manang Bound: Day Three
We started our hike early toward Manang. To my surprise, our guests were professional hikers, which made the 8-9 hour trek even more exciting. The steep climb had me lagging, but the views of Annapurna II were amazing. After three hours, I caught up with the group in Ghyaru for a tea break. We walked another three hours to Nagwal for lunch, then pushed on to Manang, arriving at 5 p.m. By then, we were completely exhausted and stayed at Hotel Tilicho in Manang to rest for the night.
Acclimatization or Adversity?: Day Four
The next day, we had an altitude acclimatization day in Manang. We hiked to Gangapurna Viewpoint early in the morning, a quick 3-hour hike. With the rest of the day free, we took the time to prepare for the pass and relax mentally.
During lunch, Shanti Didi informed Tsering Dai, Ranjit Dai, our porters, and me that one of our clients, Amélie, was feeling unwell and had the symptoms of altitude sickness. Since it was her dream to complete the trek, we decided to stay another day in Manang at Hotel Tilicho. Amélie was distressed and even cried, fearing she might have to return. Shanti Didi comforted her, and the next day we explored Manang to help her acclimate.
A Mixed Day on the Trail: Day Five
On April 15th, Amélie felt better, so we moved toward Yak Kharka. However, her breathing worsened, so Shanti Didi took her back to Manang, where she would return to Kathmandu. We continued with the porter dai and reached Yak Kharka quickly. To my surprise, Shanti Didi, being the professional hiker she is, managed to drop Amélie off in Manang and return to us in just four hours. By 5 p.m., we were reunited and stayed at Hotel Ganga Purna in Yak Kharka.
We were getting closer to our goal, and all of us were a bit nervous because we had seen a porter from another group get altitude sickness on the way to Yak Kharka. It was surprising because the porter had already completed the circuit 12 times before. However, everyone said it happened because he was already feeling unwell halfway through, but he still decided to continue the trek. Unfortunately, he wasn’t aware of acute mountain sickness and how to prevent it. The next day, we hiked to Thorong Phedi at 4,540 meters. On the way, I met Pasang Nuru Sherpa and his group from the USA. My group was walking so fast that I got left behind again, so I walked with Pasang Dai and finally reached Thorong Phedi. Pasang Dai and his group stayed in the same tea house as us at Thorong Base Camp Lodge.
As they say, the last mile before reaching your final goal is the toughest, and the next day is finally the pass day. Everyone at Thorong Phedi was nervous. Our three other guests were upset because they had to leave one of their friends behind, and our porters were anxious after seeing a porter from another group get altitude sickness. However, I was worried about being left behind again.
The Snow Leopard’s Guidance: Day Six
To make sure we reach Thorong La Pass together, I decided to hike early with Pasang Dai’s group. Meeting Pasang Dai’s group was a big plus for me. The next morning, I started the hike around 3 a.m., while Shanti Didi and our group began at 4 a.m. We knew the day would be the toughest and longest of our trek. That day, I realized I was completely unprepared for the pass. I didn’t know what to bring and forgot two important items: crampons and a flashlight. Thankfully, Shanti Didi had a spare pair of crampons, and I used my phone’s flash for the light. Later, she reminded me to always check the packing and equipment list before starting any trek.
I was walking uphill and was super tired. I had planned to reach the pass with our group and Shanti Didi, so I left Pasang Dai’s group behind. Walking alone at 4 a.m., I was surprised that my group had left me behind again. That was when I began walking at my own pace. I didn’t know it would be that hard, and I was exhausted and breathless. Around 6 a.m., while resting, I suddenly noticed the stunning landscapes around me. Seeing the sunrise above the mountains from the high camp overwhelmed me with emotion, and I burst into tears. It was a moment I will never forget.
On my way, I met Norbu uncle, who called himself “Heu Chituwa,” the snow leopard. He was walking with his guest from Germany and suggested I join them so we could reach the pass together. Since the French girls and Shanti Didi were already ahead, I decided to stick with Norbu uncle. Walking with him, I felt I found a mentor who encouraged and supported me throughout the trek.
Sticking with Norbu uncle, I made it to the pass and was only 10 minutes later than our group. They were waiting for me at the tea shop. Shanti Didi was also proud and hugged me, saying she thought it would take me an extra 45 minutes to reach the pass, but I was only 10 minutes late. I was extremely exhausted and almost in tears. I thanked Norbu uncle and the German guest, took some tea, and then started downhill again until we reached Muktinath. Today was the toughest 9-10 hours of hiking, and I felt proud and thrilled with myself.
Heading Home: Day Seven
This was our last day, and we were heading back to Tatopani the next day by vehicle. We stayed overnight in Muktinath. Our guests went to Tatopani and decided to do the Ghorepani Poon Hill trek, while I returned to Kathmandu.
Our office rearranged the itinerary, and Amélie went to Tatopani. From there, they continued on the Ghorepani Poon Hill trek. All four girls were happy to be reunited. I was pleased to have completed the trek with such cheerful and supportive people around me.
I learned to be patient, grateful, and courageous throughout this experience. The journey gave me amazing memories and a deep appreciation for the mountains and the people I met along the way.
