Kritan Chaudhary, 45, once lived an ordinary, content life. With his wife, a son, and a daughter, his family situation was stable. But farming alone could no longer sustain them. Despite his hard work, the results were disappointing, and his economic condition kept pulling him down.
So, Kritan decided to start a business selling ghonghi — freshwater snails — a delicacy of his own community. In 2019 (2076 BS), he opened the Ghonghi Center at his home in Dhelachaudi, Chaudandigadhi Municipality–5, Udayapur.
Inspired by his initiative, a few others started similar ventures. Some of those have since closed, while a few continue. Kritan’s, however, has flourished.
Today, his eatery is the most popular place in the area for ghonghi. Customers usually start arriving by noon, and the shop stays open late into the night.
His eatery now stands along the Madan Bhandari Highway in a place called Aampdada, about two kilometers east of Beltar Bazaar.
A large signboard reading “Ghonghi Corner” greets visitors by the roadside. The long building with an open yard was once a private school before the COVID-19 pandemic. After the school closed, Kritan rented the space and moved his business there.
“The shop had already started doing well back in Dhelachaudi,” he recalled, “but it was a bit far from the main road. People who wanted to eat ghonghi couldn’t easily reach us. So when this building became vacant, we shifted here.”
After moving to this location, he gained many new customers, thanks to the highway frontage. Although ghonghi sells best during the winter, Kritan’s shop stays busy year-round.
According to his son, Abdesh Chaudhary, many of their customers come back repeatedly. “People come not only from nearby areas but also from Dharan, Itahari, and Biratnagar,” he said. “Biratnagar is about 80 kilometers from here.”
What is ghonghi?
Ghonghi is a type of freshwater snail found in rivers, streams, and ponds. It has been a traditional food of the Tharu community for centuries and is often referred to as “Tharu seafood.” It is a staple dish among the Tharu, Dhimal, Rajbanshi, and other indigenous communities living in Nepal’s Tarai region.
It’s sometimes called the “Yarsagumba of the plains” because it is rich in calcium, protein, and other nutrients.
Nowadays, ghonghi is also farmed commercially in ponds, making it available throughout the year. Kritan does not raise them himself but buys them from places like Beltar and Fatepur, where they cost around Rs 80–90 per kilogram.
Aside from being a traditional delicacy, ghonghi is also considered beneficial for health. It’s believed to be rich in calcium and good for bone-related problems such as pain and strain, which, Kritan says, is another reason people come to eat it.
How is it prepared?
The preparation process is long and laborious.
According to Kritan, once the snails are brought from the pond, they are soaked in water overnight. The tip (tail) of the shell is then cut off, washed thoroughly, and boiled. After boiling, they are washed again, and the inner hard part, called khil, is removed. Only then are they cooked with salt, oil, and spices.
A plate of ghonghi, containing about 25–30 pieces, sells for Rs 100 at his eatery.
A family business
Today, the Ghonghi Center has become a full-fledged family enterprise. Kritan, his wife Shanti Devi, daughter Srishti, and son Abdesh all work together. They also employ a few other helpers.
Their elder son, Paras, was once involved in the business too but has since gone abroad.
Now, most of the operations are managed by Abdesh, who has completed his +2 education. Besides helping with the family restaurant, he also drives vehicles such as jeeps, dozers, and tippers.
“When we ran the shop back home in Dhelachaudi, we used to sell around 10 kilograms of ghonghi a day,” he said. “Now, it’s 30 to 40 kilograms daily.”
Besides ghonghi, the shop also serves other local dishes. In winter, fish is available, along with local favorites like roasted soybeans with beaten rice. But ghonghi remains the main attraction.
Looking ahead, Kritan and his family plan to make their business more organised and expand it further.
