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Seeing the sea and beyond: What China taught me about progress

Seeing the sea and beyond: What China taught me about progress

On the morning of May 7, I landed at Guangzhou Transit Airport. It was my first time travelling abroad.  It was also my first time boarding such a large plane. Even though I was very excited, the four and a half hour flight from Nepal made me tired. Navigating the airport was challenging due to the language barrier and rainy weather. 

 Then there came a time to take a flight to Nanjing.  Even after about 1 hour of boarding the plane, the plane didn’t take off.  From here, my journey begins. 

The first day 

When I arrived at Nanjing Airport, it was 6 pm. I spent some time searching for the correct terminal to collect my luggage, which delayed me a bit. As soon as I stepped outside, I met the person sent to receive me—a young man who would later become a good friend.

That was my first real moment of experiencing China. The organisers had arranged a deluxe car to pick me up, and to my surprise, the driver was a woman—something I hadn’t expected but appreciated. Throughout the ride, I was constantly amazed by the big, clean roads, the efficient metro system, and the towering apartments that lined the city.

We reached the Starway Hotel in Nanjing city around 7:45 PM. Since it was nighttime and I was in an unfamiliar place, I initially felt a bit uneasy. Dinner wasn’t provided at the hotel that night, so I went out alone in search of food. I ended up having dumplings. 

Exploring Nanjing

Seeing the sea and beyond: What China taught me about progress

The next day, I met the rest of the team from Nepal who had arrived a day earlier. Together, we began our journey to the Nanjing University of Information Science and Technology. The university was expansive and well-organised, and it is recognised as one of China’s prestigious institutions in the field of science.

On the first day, we had a casual introduction and conversation with professors and university administrators. Our formal training on climate change and climate forecasting began soon after and continued regularly for five to six days. Each day included a two-hour break in the afternoon, which I used to walk around the campus and its surroundings, taking in the peaceful environment.

I noticed a large international student presence, especially from countries like Bangladesh, Pakistan, various African nations, and Latin American regions. It made the experience feel even more global and vibrant.

Historically, Nanjing served as the capital of six ancient Chinese dynasties. It felt like a city suspended between two worlds—half traditional village, half modern metropolis. I was particularly impressed by how well the city preserved its cultural heritage amidst rapid urban development.

Despite its historical roots, China is developing at a remarkable pace. One day, we visited an agricultural farm near Nanjing city, where we had a meal at a revolving table—an experience that was both novel and memorable. Many Nepalis had warned me that Chinese food lacks sweetness, but I found it pleasantly sweet and enjoyable. The weather, too, reminded me of Nepal, though I didn’t see tall trees like those back home.

We also toured an ancient palace from the time when Nanjing served as China’s capital. It was grand and well-preserved. Nearby stood a long wall, reminiscent of the Great Wall. I had intended to visit the site of the Nanjing Massacre—something my friend Narendra Basel in Beijing had repeatedly encouraged—but unfortunately, the organisers didn’t include it in the itinerary.

Another highlight was our visit to a renowned Chinese green tea producer, where we saw an expansive tea plantation. At the hotel, we were regularly served Chinese green tea, and before long, I found myself addicted to it.

China’s outstanding development 

Later, we travelled to Qingdao city for an Asia-level conference. The journey took five hours by high-speed train, followed by another hour by bus. During the train ride, we saw Chinese villages—some abandoned or nearly deserted, others still inhabited. It was evident that people were steadily migrating from rural areas to the cities. What amazed me was the smoothness of the high-speed train—it barely shook at all.

By the tenth day, I was both impressed and overwhelmed by China’s integrated development. Everything was massive and meticulously organised. The roads were astonishingly clean—something unimaginable back in Nepal. People were busy and focused. Interestingly, Chinese youth were just as engaged with TikTok and mobile phones as their Nepali counterparts.

Qingdao, located near the Yellow Sea, was where I saw the sea for the first time in my life. I touched the water, dipped my feet in, and let the moment sink in. The following day, we did some boating on the sea, though heavy fog and wind prevented us from going far. We still get to see various types of boats and watercraft.

Qingdao is also known for its affordable beer. Our hosts and local friends told us that good beer could be found for as little as 40 to 80 Nepali rupees. During the 2008 Olympics, Qingdao hosted water sports competitions, and locals still take pride in that. We tasted a variety of seafood—something I knew I wouldn’t easily find again back in Nepal.

We also visited a British Colonial Garden in the city. The residences built during the colonial period have now been transformed into tourist attractions. Another key visit was to the headquarters of the famous tech company Hisense, where we were briefed on their market, innovations, and future strategies. Their commitment to research and development was impressive—it felt as though China was keeping some of its most remarkable inventions under wraps until the right time. 

Surprising factors

Seeing the sea and beyond: What China taught me about progress

After a three-day stay, we returned to Nanjing by high-speed train. Our 15-day program was drawing to a close. During our stay, we developed a warm rapport with our Chinese hosts—Miss Shien, Professor Wang, and our young friends Wang, Alex, and Susie. Our training group also included participants from Cuba, South Africa, Central Africa, Mauritius, Fiji, and Ethiopia.

Before returning home, we travelled to Guangzhou, a city with a different character from other parts of China. In some ways, it even reminded me of Nepal. Known as a hub for exporting Chinese goods worldwide, Guangzhou also has a visible Nepali presence. We visited the ancestral home of martial arts legend Bruce Lee, where we took photos amid the daily crowd. We explored centuries-old houses, squares, and local neighbourhoods, which gave us a glimpse into the city’s rich heritage.

Our guide there was a bit lazy, but I still made sure to bring back gifts. I had brought four packets of organic coffee and four Nepali souvenirs. I gifted the coffee to Miss Shien, the Cuban woman, a female college staff member, and my friend from Fiji. The souvenirs—which included tokens representing Sagarmatha, Buddha, and Newari culture—were given to young Wang, Amandine from Central Africa, my Ethiopian friend, and one more person whose name I unfortunately forgot. Surprisingly, delegates from other countries hadn’t brought any gifts. The Nepali team, however, had even brought local rum in a Khukuri-shaped bottle, after consulting with organisers. We also presented a gift to the college’s senior administrator.

The Cuban woman gave me three Cuban pesos as a keepsake. During our conversations, I learned that Cuba is far less developed than I had imagined. 

From the moment I entered China, one thing stood out: I didn’t see any trace of religion or God. There were no temples in the cities or historic sites. Curious by nature, I paid close attention in every place we visited—Nanjing, Qingdao, and Guangzhou. I asked young people what God or religion they believed in. Most of them were surprised by the question. They told me,  “Religion doesn’t play a role in their lives, and around 99% of Chinese youth do not know about Buddhism or Buddha.” 

They even questioned the need for religion at all.

Even Confucius’s influence seemed minimal. According to the professors, it was Mao Zedong, Deng Xiaoping, and the current president, Xi Jinping, who shaped modern China. Their emphasis on science and technology laid the foundation for China’s transformation.

Returning with questions

This made me reflect: If China could develop, ensure public services, and help its youth find purpose without relying on religion, why are we in Nepal still stuck in religious debates? Why does our state continue to pour resources into temples and rituals instead of science and innovation?

Interestingly, while visiting the Nanjing Fort, I did see some Christian propaganda posters. But beyond that, religion seemed almost nonexistent.

Throughout my journey, I observed that Chinese people—especially the youth—are diligent, focused on work, live modern lifestyles, are highly tech-savvy, show little interest in politics, and are increasingly fluent in English.

On the 17th day, I returned to Nepal with a lingering question in my mind: When will our leaders stop emphasising God and religion and start investing in science and technology?
 

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BK is a film graduate as well as an aspiring director.

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