In search for the ‘water tiger’ in eastern Nepal

Our team finally arrived at Mai Beni after a five hours hike. The last stretch included a stiff climb on a steep hill with a scary knife’s edge trail hardly a foot wide with Sun Koshi on one side and Arun to the other. In all honesty, with no head for heights, I literally crawled […]

Three years after Nepal quake, Jiddé Budi is back in her ‘house of stories’

  I first met her while trekking to Gosainkunda. My friends and I had walked up to her village with an old man who was headed home, a village a bit farther down on the trail to the sacred lake. When he stopped at this ramshackle place for a bowl of chhyang, we decided to […]